Despite sailing a merlin for about 5yrs and having our current Turner frp 'tales for 3, I still struggle to get the thing going upwind. Currently rigged with a superspars carbon (old stiffy) and old (ex Chris Martin) P&B sails and sailing with about 22 stone on board where should I start with my settings?

New sails or get yours recut they are your engine.

And try sitting out, and start with every one else. You could but Wilfred on the tiller. AJ

Sea or Pond?

That set of P&Bs are now definately long in the tooth if they have been used most weekends! The usual problem is lowers, try sailing with them a little tighter. Those sails were pretty flat, and are certainly flat compared to newer sail designs. More lowers will hold what fullness there is in the bottom of the sail and should help pointing.

stop taking a swim during the race?

Ok, (1)what is a good rake setting to start with (2) Anyone got a decent suit of sails for sale at about £350 or, preferably, less (bit strapped for cash at the moment and will be for a while)? (3)I do sit out and what you doing looking at me when you should be looking forward then you won't clump so many marks or disturb the worms sleep!

Rake - need a little bit, 9-12 ins on the dangleometer, but no more till you are starting to get properly overpowered.  Don't oversheet the jib if it's not howling, sit out hard and don't sit back in until you are more than upright.  It's very instructive to have a look at the top of the fleet going to windward, follow the link to the video of the Warming Pan and watch how upright and hiked everyone is.  I can't do it but I know what I should do!!!

Forgive if stating the bleeding obvious; but...

On Shore - GGGG wrote a bit in the Mag a while back on this - Rutland also good for this
1 - Set spreaders if adjustable
2 - Get upright position and pre-bend accurately dialed in (parallel with stempost under normal (firm) tension
3 - Understand midpoint for lowers - if in doubt guess - jib up (no main) mild inversion (hoisted main will push gooseneck back into place)
4 - Don't overtighten Main halyard or Cunningham
5 - Find your favourite jib car position and mark it

In your head - Going the right way with old sails set right is usually quicker than going the wrong way or with all the right gear in the wrong place. Don't worry about his kit just use what you've got it'll only be 1% off the pace

On Water - Sail fast always, preferably via shortest route
1 - Outhaul tight (firm not bar tight - beware it gets tighter when the kicker tightens + no stretch = rrriiippp)
2 - Head out of boat - don't stuff, hike hard, boat flat
3 - Leech Tension (Kicker)
4 - Head out of boat
5 - Jib Slot (Jib Sheet tension) Don't stall the slot
6 - Head out of boat
7 - Shroud Tension (Leeward shroud just tight, possibly floppy in short chop)
8 - Head out of boat
9 - Mast Rake (less if not fully hiking or upright, more if boom over corner)
8 - Head out of boat
9 - Board Rake (match rig)
10 - Repeat from 2

Any corrections gratefully accepted

There is of course another factor people seldom mention - ability - talent!

Hi Floppy Toppy

I have a VGC 2007 Dynamic mainsail and jib for sale - see secondhand list for more details.

Dave Lee

Ah! thats the problem, anyone got any talent in good condition they would be prepared to sell cheap

And what would your current crew think, if they knew you were out buying talent??

Surely its the helm that needs to buy the talent?

Does talent come in a drikable form or does it have to be taken intravenously?

Sadly for you its hereditary you are born with it.