MERLIN ROCKET FORUM

Topic : Epoxy

What (if any) epoxy should be used on treating the bare planks prior to applying 2-pack undercoat?

I have already bought International Perfection under and top coats and I don't know if there can be compatibility problems between these paints and the various epoxy systems one can buy.

Also, what is the difference between the various "West System" epoxies and their various competitors?

Thanks in advance

Jon


Posted: 01/01/2006 18:07:05
By: Jon
West system and SP are very much the same. However the west handipack is MUCH better than the SP handipack so if you only want a small amount go for the west.

I've also heard good things about the Blue G product, but i've never used it.

Compatability wise there is no problem with two pack, but you will need to wash the cured resin down with soapy water to remove the residue before you flat it down or paint it. Acetone or thinners won't touch it, soapy water does.

Another tip is to warm the resin with a hairdryer as you brush it on - it goes a lot further if you do and soaks in better.


Posted: 01/01/2006 19:14:14
By: Chris
exactly, as it cures it exudes wax. you needs to wash it off thoroughly. otherwise ideal way of sealing bare wood.


Posted: 01/01/2006 19:57:53
By: Alan F
Thanks chaps,

How many litres for a whole merlin? (and how many coats do you give it?)

Do you just put it on until it stops soaking it up?


Posted: 01/01/2006 20:58:32
By: Jon
3 coats is the norm, not too thick. Actually it's probably best to use a roller.

You'll probably need at least 2 1kg packs.


Posted: 01/01/2006 21:01:48
By: Chris
SP106 for serious amounts rather than the little packs


Posted: 02/01/2006 06:35:26
By: JimC
On that, an idea I've never tried but keep thinking I should is to use peel ply on the last coat of epoxy on the floor to give a neat aand non-aggressive non slip finish.


Posted: 02/01/2006 06:36:52
By: JimC
I've used the Blue Gee stuff and found it very good. It's very tolerant of low temperature - which can't be said of SP 301. It also has a diluent available which is very good for getting the stuff to soak into the wood when coating


Posted: 02/01/2006 20:14:49
By: Richard S
A good tip i was given by a local boatbuilder when applying epoxy to bare wood decks. Use a squeege to apply the first coat, goes on thin and penetrates the wood well, apply the second coat when still just tacky this now flows to a flat finish much better.


Posted: 03/01/2006 12:41:21
By: Other Chris
Squeegees are definitely the way to go-using brush/rollers adds socking amounts of weight for no benefit, and a less consistent coat thickness to boot.


Posted: 03/01/2006 16:36:05
By: BmaxRog
Ok to be brief 'not all epoxyies are the same!!!'
I make no excuses for favouring SP mainly because they are four miles up the road & my source is only 1/4 of a mile away on my dog walking route!
I'd suggest a read of there website, just type in SP
In brief SP106 there original standard general purpose boat building resin (almost a direct sister to West 105)I wont bore you with the historical conection. Ampreg 22 a more advanced beast excellent all round resin, SP 115 a brilliant flow coat/laminating resin used on surfboards etc has uv stabilisers but with a coat of epifanes uv varnish on is real see your reflection stuff. All boat builders will have there favourites but check out the info on there site, loads of printable tech sheets.
Downside not cheap but a little goes a very long way & why save £20/£30 quid on cheaper stuff if your going to be looking at it for 10-15 years,
PS don't wipe your nose mid job!


Posted: 03/01/2006 18:40:26
By: Barry Watkin
About to embark on similar exercise, What type of squeegee? Where do you get? Can they be reused?


Posted: 04/01/2006 17:45:38
By: GP epoxy virgin
I started with a rubber window type squeege, not to be recommended as there seemed to be a reaction between epoxy and rubber causing come black impurities to affect the epoxy. Best thing i found was a piece of semi flexible plastic with a straight edge (i used a plastic launching trolley label issued at Filey regatta)sure you could find something of similar material.


Posted: 05/01/2006 09:13:31
By: Other Chris
I used a couple of metal bladed ones I came across in the bargain bin at Purple marine- i don't know what they were actually intended for originally, but they worked a treat, and were easy to clean of old 'poxy, even if I needed to resort to sandpaper.


Posted: 05/01/2006 16:05:26
By: BmaxRog
what about using a dry wall scraper, thats what i used to add filler to the hull, they are stiff but still flexable, I think it was 3pounds at B&Q


Posted: 05/01/2006 17:19:31
By: MR1018
Thanks Guys. I'll try some out first. Anything to avoid sticking the cat to the wall.


Posted: 05/01/2006 17:59:38
By: GP epoxy virgin

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