MERLIN ROCKET FORUM

Topic : Cleating the Traveller

Apologies if this has already been covered but I can't find it referenced in the forum.

I recently bought a Winder CT 3591 which is a fine boat but the traveller won't cleat on a starboard tack. Port is ok. It has the original car on pulleys at the top pulled via a 2:1 arrangement above the thwart(?) moulding and then away underneath to the cleat and round to the T-puller. Cleating off works fine (when I can get it on). Quite simply, the rope doesn't go deep enough into the cleat to catch.

I could pack out the cleats but I worry that it wont then un-cleat. Chris M recently suggested to me that I should move the 2:1 below the thwart(?) to get a more direct line through the cleat. I can see that this is a great idea but I can't work out the best way to secure it and tie off the fixed end etc.

Can someone be kind enough to describe a secure and reliable fix and maybe email me a sketch?

Thanks for your help.


Posted: 06/11/2007 20:57:40
By: Terry
Do the photos at: http://www.merlinrocket.co.uk/gallery/default.asp?folder=gallery/rigging_guide/3683 give any help?


Posted: 06/11/2007 21:06:41
By: CJ
The cleats may be worn out too. Good luck replacing them, took me ages!


Posted: 06/11/2007 21:08:10
By: Chris M
I have had exactly the same problem and as described changing the cleats is a real nightmare,but after several hours work lying in the bottom of the boat it still wouldnt cleat ,at this point I noticed the rope for pulling the travellar across had gone flat at the point that it enters the cleat, changed the rope, problem solved, best of luck if its not this though.


Posted: 07/11/2007 00:41:55
By: Charles D
Yep I had some problems on my old boat with this.

Change the rope and if all else fails try changing the cleat - but you will need a very small pair of hands.


Posted: 07/11/2007 07:48:01
By: AndyD
Terry
I would be supprised if it is your cleats worn out.
Replace the rope. This is not straight forward, as the length of the rope is very important for this type of system to work. I suggest you leave the rope long through the lawn mower starting handle and allow a couple of hour experiments moving the knot to adjust length. Too long will not uncleat the opposite side, and too short will not work at all.
You will need patients but there is logic to how it works, it's just a pity that its not obvious.
Good luck.


Posted: 07/11/2007 07:53:32
By: Rocket0_1
If you had transom sheeting there no cleat to wareout.


Posted: 07/11/2007 08:36:59
By: :-)
except your hands !!!!!!!!


Posted: 07/11/2007 11:21:50
By: Rob-2601
If the string is in good nick - then it is likely to be too short on one side. 

The cleats do wear out after a time - It is important to use Servo cleats as they have a better cleating action than Harken or Holt.

While you're at it move the 2:1 to the sides - both neater and smoother.


Posted: 11/11/2007 12:35:12
By: D Lapes
Thank you all for your inputs. I note that the cleat has metal teeth which suggests that it may once have used steel wire but at least this means that it is not worn. However, the rope is in poor shape where it has engaged with the cleat and will need to be replaced.

While I am at it, I am interested in the comment 'While you're at it move the 2:1 to the sides - both neater and smoother.' Can you describe this more fully - or better still - email be a brief sketch please?


Posted: 14/11/2007 08:57:22
By: Terry
I think that you will find that the rope on the other side is actually causing the problem and needs lengthening slightly to allow the uncleating line to free off enough to let it cleat on the other side.


Posted: 14/11/2007 09:56:26
By: Stuart Bates (MR3615)
Before you move the 2 to 1 from above the thwart to below the thwart (and hence below the cleat), which effectively doubles the tension going through the cleated rope (basic pyhsics, check the thickness of the tufnell panel that the cleats mount on. On some earlier Winders these were not as thick as the current ones (currently 4mm I think). In essence if you can flex the mount by grabbing it with your hand and applying pressue and you get some movement, even 1mm, then don't move your 2 to 1.

I know, from experence, that this is enough movement for the cleat to uncleat due to the doubled pressure the mounting plate moves and the rope uncleats, but of course there needs to be a lot of pressure, i.e. fully hiked out; and having the traveller uncleat isn't pleasant or fast.

There are ways of beefing up the mounting plate, but none as easy as leaving the 2 to 1 above the cleat.


Posted: 14/11/2007 10:34:42
By: Alan F

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