I currently own NSM3 "Silver Dollar" sail number 3340. The paint on the port side of the hull is flaking as if incompatable with the paint layer below it. The original (lower level) paint appears to be silver, hence the name ! The top coat is now off white. Does anybody remember Silver Dollar and what paint was used for the original topcoat the subsequent repaint?
The hull really needs rubbing down and painting but I do not want to do, or have done all that work only to find that it comes off again!.
Also any good tips on who would do a good job at a reasonable price ?
Brian

She used to be at Hampton years ago, all I can remember was she was definately silver then and had the name on the side.

Dirtyhands is your man for the paint job.  I'm afraid I don't have his contact details to hand, but I'm sure Chris Martin will be on here tomorrow to give you the info!

It sounds more like the previous (silver) coat hasn't been sanded down properly. If paint is going to react it does it instantly!

Phil Dirtyhands is your man, 07973 720 732, based where you picked the sails up from last year.

Thanks. I think you are right about the sanding as it is localised to one side of the hull. Its a shame because the original silver finish seems to be better than the later addition. I will contact Phil for a price. Brian

Was that the side exposed to the sun?

May have been but the flaking is mainly in the 6 inches below the gunwale so hidden under the cover. Brian

Try scraping with a sharp scraper in the suspect area to make sure any paint which is not obviously keyed well is found and removed.If the suspect paint is flakey and not vein like then a bad key is the problem. Some silver paints can be quite oily.
Then really sand all the hull back well( go for it!).You may cut back though previous layers in places but do'nt worry. Perhaps start with P80 grade paper then sand over again with P120. Finaly wipe off with Meths. Hopefully this should give a sound and  well abraded surface that can be undercoated. Then proceed in the usual/favoured way applying further undercoats and gloss coats with wet and dry between coats to achieve an acceptable finish.
 Really, the ideal way would be to strip it all back to bare wood and start from there but this way may save some time.
Best of luck,
Alan (Rookie Merlin sailer - Old Brush Hand!)

Anyone ever had a hull 'dipped' to remove all paint and varnish in one go? They do it with pine doors.....

They use sodium hydroxide to do this and I wonder what the effect on glues might be - you try it first Mags and let us know!!

Judging from the effect on one of our veneered desks (before dipping), I wouldn't recommend it - unless you want to re-glue ALL the laminates.

Urea-formaldehyde glue is "reversible" - too much water (or alkali) and it returns to the components (and stops holding things together)...
Colin

I seem to recall that Silver Dollar was originally owned by Alan Chaplin (aka Whitstable PRO in these portals) and that from new she was sprayed with car paint for a genuine silver finish.

Should Alan pick up this thread he would comment.  Perhaps another thread headed Slver Dollar might catch his attention quicker?

GGGGGGGGG

The trouble with doing metallics is that they need to be laquered which adds to the cost as you're buying twice the paint (Though you can still do it in a couple of hours as the base coat cures very quickly) and the laquer is absolutely rock hard when it's cured.

This is probably why it never got prepped properly, the guy who did it had probably been at it for a week with 600 grade and actually barely marked it!

Car paint sounds like it is probably the answer. We have already discussed this at Broadwater and thought that the original layer might be car paint sprayed on. Is so can the "new" coat be removed leaving the original coat? Brian

It'll need to be done again i'm afraid.