Assuming early Merlins had metal centeboards when did wood/composite plates become the norm? Presumably mid 60's? |
Not sure merlins ever had metal boards. All the early boats I've seen have been wood. |
Early Merlins - Kate No 1, Iska No 6, Terrapin No 36, Secret Water No 111 (boats built in 1946 and 1947) all have lumps of lead on the end of the centreboard. Gannet 252 (built in 1951) has a plain wooden board (and a lovely piece of solid mahogany it is too!!) Not sure when the lead was dropped - probably as soon as the Thames was full of lead tips!! There was an issue in the early weighing of hulls too - they were weighed with the board out. Boats now are weighed with the board in and are therefore much lighter in the hull. My board weighs about 7kg!! But if you look at the link at Hampton last year you can see the advantage in a blow!! I am not aware of any solid metal boards. http://www.merlinrocket.co.uk/gallery/view_photo.asp?folder=gallery/building_and_repairs/restoration_of_111&file=111_at_hampton_open_2006.jpg |
Thanks, I just assumed most 50's/early 60's dinghies had metal plates. |
As far as I know Merlins never had all metal centreboards and I bow to Garry's knowledge pre 1960 but I do know there was a brief period from about 1967 to Well post 1070 when the boat was weighed with the centrboard in and there was NO maximum centre board weight boats were coming out abot 20 - 30lbs (old money) light and at least two of us, myself and Alan Warren had ballasted centreboards instead of correctors, ours was obeche sheathed in glass anyway, so it was easily done, one needed an uphaul system just like the Metal Centreboard classes. |
Could you put some of your correctors from a modern Merlin in the bottom of the board? Of course observing the max board weight... |
Can't see why not as it is total weight hull plus foil nowadays. |
Quite a few classes did have steel centreplates in the 40s and 50s - Fireflies for certain and I think 12ft Nationals also. |
Given that I understand most boards are sheathed or moulded these days (So it should be easy enough to do.)I'd hazard a guess they weigh in less than 8kg unless that is some people are keeping quiet about having max weight boards with the weight in the bottom? |
Larks still have metal plates, and don't Finns too? |
You sail your boat flat, so putting weight at the end of the board is not going to help. It will make the boats pitching moment worse which will hinder. |
It certainly will not help pitching. (The adverse effect over 14' of waterline length against the very much greater effect over about 4' of waterline beam shouls also be noted.) However as we have been taught from Manfred Curry (1936.) onwards, rolling is worse, and in the pursuit of the Holy Grail of sailing flat it's very easy to rock n' roll the boat about especially going to windward as the various videos show all too well, the additional benefit of the weight will help iron this out, as well as helping to right the boat untill (On very rare occasions.) it is absolutely vertical. I have only watched Rogert Gilbert sail a MR once but what was impressive wasn't how flat his boat was (Though it was.) but how smooth it was. Anything that helps this must be a good thing. It's doubtful the funds could be found to really test this, so if it gives you confidence do it if it gives you confidence not to then do that. |
In the grand scale of things a heavy board is not going to affect pitching that much. The rig weight will have a much greater effect. |
Squirrel (235) has solid mahogany wood board and my first merlin Calinda (169) also had solid wood board in both cases with tip protected by thin brass band. Both boats built by Jack. |
252's board has the protective strip of brass on the tip |
Jack Chippendale or Jack Holt? |
Book says Holt |
Early Merlins all had weighted wooden centreplates - no bolts but rollers that ran up and down along the top of the plate casing. Absolute works of art - some had lead bottoms -others had wonderful brass weights let into the mahogany boards. |
Ballasted Centreboards. |