After some tips/expert advice please.

Having had to strip back to wood a part of the foredeck due to damp/frost damage, what is the recommnded way to feather new varnish into existing without seeing an ugly line? Is it a case of sanding until the two become flush?

As the previous owner has used single pot varnish I intend to use UCP and then build up top coats. Again any tips here??


Thanks in advance of any replies

Tricky one.   See below where there might be some information.  I have always stripped it all off.

Ask on the CVRDA forum too. There's some vintage Merlin experts there!!

Wot's this ere? A Yotty who can't varnish?

What about spraying? Anyone here done it themselves?

Yes, sprayed 3302 inside and out about 10 years ago.  It's pretty messy but you get a good finish if you have decent kit.  

The think is, once we finished we went to JT's yard and when you compare anything to the finish he could provide with a brush, it was a little disheartening!

If I had to do it again, I'd spray the paint and brush the varnish....

Well when you do it at home you know it wont be as good as the pros....but I just want the quick and lazy option! The thought of varnishing the inside of 3245 sometime this year fills me with dread. It was bad enough doing the decks alone 3 years ago...

I have to do some varnishing but am struggling like hell to find the space, i have a standard single garage and my boat just fits but i could only do one side deck at a time how does everyone else cope???

wait till the weather gets warmer and do it outside.

Get used to crawling if varnishing in a narrow garage.

When sanding / stripping, string the boat up at an angle using a cunning contrivance of block, tackle led from the spinny sheet through deck block location and support boat at mid gunwhale and bow and stern.  

I sanded and stripped Smoked Salmon in a garage only 2.40 m wide with the boat suspended and wedged at an angle of c. 50 degrees.  Makes life very much easier.

Varnishing best done with boat level!  

Mind you, the finish is not exactly Paintcraft or Scotty, for that matter, but it has covered and protected! for two seasons.

If you're reasonably handy with a brush you'd be amazed how much differance wetting the floor makes and letting the dust settle for 20 minuites or so before you varnish.

It won't hide bad brushing, but it will keep 60% of the dust off.

I once varnished the inside whilst my Merlin was upside down to avoid dust...reasonable result but harder work than normal way up. Trouble is that you would be sailing with upside down varnish which could lead to boat inverting more easily! If I did it again I would choose a warm day, support the hull on two separate zip up scaffold tower sections  and blast out first with a compressed air line.

If you don't strip the whole deck you will find the the stripped wood will be a different colour to the still varnished wood.  This is because the old varnish will have aged an yellowed slightly. 

I find it very difficult to find a suitable border if yoy are not going to strip the lot.

You can build uo a stripped area and once you get enough coats on, say 4 or 5 then you can rub down and varnish the whole.  As I say the colours will be different but you will not get a feather line.

I painted a 20yr old 470 upside down for my son 10yrs back which produced a pretty good finish. Like everything its 50% preperation a poly tent static earth wire, good brush on pad to finish worked well. On our Merlin we refinished right way up, clear epoxy coat then varnish, foam (epoxy type) roller on pad to finish, each coat applied early morning or evening then shed locked (poly tented) temp 10-12c(autumm)
I was lucky composite hull so painted inside but did use international 'matting agent' 50% to internal gloss & non slip areas. This cuts out glare & hides minor defects. dust was cleaned out hours prior to finishing, remember they blow crap around at horrendous rate which kind of defeats the object! I used alcholhol rag to wipe prior to painting, best of luck Barry.
ps outside grp polished!! (to easy)

Does anyone know where you can get those foam "Jennie" brushes. I've heard they are very good for getting a smooth finish

robbins timber amongst others - www.robbins.co.uk

They have them on ebay too - about 90p each I think.  But some varnishes swell them up and eat them away so you will need a few.  Beware bits falling off.  I actually use foam cut into blocks and it works every bit as well provided you use the nice straight edge - and cheaper.

I cant bring myself to clean them - too much effort. For 50p you might as well throw them away. I'm sure most chandlers sell em - Guildford Marine does.

I've still got my "Hamiltons Oval Varnish Brush" I bought in 1960! Admitedly I don't use it much these days but even in 1960 it was £10.00.00d odd! It doesn't drop hairs, holds a lot of Varnish and gives a fantastic finish, it's brother/sister for colours was left in a can of International "Brittania Blue" 2 pack in 1968, and forms a useful trophy/reminder in my workshop.