Topic : Deck Varnishing

I am about to revarnish light coloured ply decks after taking back to bare wood. Approach at this point is as follows:
* A couple of coats of epoxy primer (eposeal 300) till smoothish
* 1/2 coats of epoxy (SP320)
* Finish with several light layers of varnish.

So, I am hoping I can get some advice on the following:

1) Is this is a good approach or slightly overkill? If overkill, what can/should I skip?
2) What type of varnish should I use over the epoxy? Can I use any varnish over the epoxy ie. single or poly?
3) Would there be any issues with using epifanes over SP?
4) Before varnishing over the epoxy I need to make sure that all the residue on the top of the epoxy is removed. Is this correct?

Many thanks for all your good advice and opinions.

Posted: 19/07/2005 00:41:17
By: Varnishing Virgin
4x wood gloss$num=47&sec=8&data=products.asp

Posted: 19/07/2005 08:30:09
By: chipley shed
Any one speak Italian??!!

Posted: 19/07/2005 08:39:47
By: Just One Cornetto
I have just used 3 coats eposeal, 2 of epoxy and 3 of Ultrovar. Looks good. Marineware are very helpful for supply as is Martin at SP Systems.

Posted: 19/07/2005 08:42:52
By: Garry R
Thx for replys so far.

So Chipley, you wouldn't bother with the Eposeal?

Managed to translate webpage using Italian is a little rusty....

Posted: 19/07/2005 08:43:18
By: Varnishing Virgin
I think the Eposeal gives a really good seal and base to the subsequent coats.  The advantage of going with one system is that you know everything is compatible.  One important thing is that you must wait at least 10 days between the Eposeal coat and the SP320 to allow the solvent to come right out as it might bubble up.

Posted: 19/07/2005 09:11:37
By: Garry R
Thanks Garry,

OOC - what grit do you rub down with between coats and is this wet or dry? How long did you wait before rubbing back?


Posted: 19/07/2005 12:52:55
By: Varnishing Virgin
Trick is to overcoat within the curing period and then you don't have to sand between coats of the same layer.  If it does cure then I used 120grit to get a good key.  I used this between the sealer and epoxy and then between epoxy and Ultrovar.  It seems to be important to use the thiiners of the next coat to wipe down between the different coatings as a de-greaser ie. use the epoxy solvent before epoxy and the Ultrovar solvent before the Ultrovar finishes.  Between the Ukltrovar coats I allowed a good cure and rubbed down with wet and dry with a bit of Fairy Liquid. Make sure you have got rid of all slake and bits.  Work dust free as possible.  A couple of important tips.  A) DON'T work late in the evening or if rain is imminent - it will turn horribly milky and you'll have to start again.  B) DON'T mix more than you can use in 20 mins as it will start to turn jellylike and the finish will be poor. Make sure that you cover all the surface and skim as you go - if you try to go back and "just tidy it up" it doesn't work!!! C) Use a foam roller to apply and skim off with a light touch of a jennybrush (it removes the orange-peel effect) and gives a great shine.  You can get the rollers and the brushes cheap on ebay.  Chuck them after use.  If you want to contact me off forum use the email.

Posted: 19/07/2005 13:15:33
By: Garry R
Check out Ed Bremners varnishing hints and tips document on the CVRDA web site.

Posted: 19/07/2005 13:19:50
By: Dave Lee
I find that a bottle of beer in my left hand whilst rubbing down the boat with the right really helps my balance.

Posted: 19/07/2005 14:01:44
By: Jon
I did the decks of my smokers this year from bare wood, colron stain & 11 coats Intenational Schooner, 9 with the foam brushes and the last 2 gravity feed spray gun exellent value start to finish 6 days 2 coats a day.
23quid well spent & the decks look great and are still origonal.
as most merlins live under cover I think the benefits of epoxy and 2k systems are lost on the decks!! hulls yes decks no , but thats just me.

Posted: 19/07/2005 21:15:06
By: scott 3072
you've found a spray system that takes marine varnish?
please can you give make and price....

Posted: 20/07/2005 09:09:47
By: Mags
Hi Mags is is a Prof grade automotive gravity fed gun about £47 + vat can buy a selection of needles and nozels but I find the 1.8 mm ideal for all marine grade paints and varnish, I painted the hull and topsides of my speed boat with Blakes 1 pack, got a great finish and very durable 2 season use already.

The 2 golden rules are you must thin paint & varnish consisitntly through whole job to maintain colour consistincy and only use the recomended thinners ( no white spirits etc) and use a warm work shop 20o - 25o or good days outside(watch for midges and beasties

I will take a note of the Gun details and post asap

Posted: 20/07/2005 09:52:36
By: scott 3072
Hmm, not too expensive really, considering the finish you can get.
Though a shame to only use it a few times....perhaps offer it out for hire to others!

Posted: 20/07/2005 09:59:11
By: Mags
SP LEAVES A RESIDUE .Unless you  only use SP you will have problems with reaction if other systems are mixed when applying.Two pot does not let the wood breath . Single pot !If you want a really hi gloss, add a smidge of meths and stir into the single pot varnish.

Posted: 20/07/2005 10:01:00
If it was looked after I would send it for the cost of postatge + a small fee for wear and tear!!

Posted: 20/07/2005 10:28:18
By: scott 3072


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